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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.